Some hair science for you!

Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage.

Rele AS, Mohile RB.
Source
Research and Development Department, Nature Care Division, Marico Industries Ltd., Mumbai, India.

Previously published results showed that both in vitro and in vivo coconut oil (CNO) treatments prevented combing damage of various hair types. Using the same methodology, an attempt was made to study the properties of mineral oil and sunflower oil on hair. Mineral oil (MO) was selected because it is extensively used in hair oil formulations in India, because it is non-greasy in nature, and because it is cheaper than vegetable oils like coconut and sunflower oils. The study was extended to sunflower oil (SFO) because it is the second most utilized base oil in the hair oil industry on account of its non-freezing property and its odorlessness at ambient temperature. As the aim was to cover different treatments, and the effect of these treatments on various hair types using the above oils, the number of experiments to be conducted was a very high number and a technique termed as the Taguchi Design of Experimentation was used. The findings clearly indicate the strong impact that coconut oil application has to hair as compared to application of both sunflower and mineral oils. Among three oils, coconut oil was the only oil found to reduce the protein loss remarkably for both undamaged and damaged hair when used as a pre-wash and post-wash grooming product. Both sunflower and mineral oils do not help at all in reducing the protein loss from hair. This difference in results could arise from the composition of each of these oils. Coconut oil, being a triglyceride of lauric acid (principal fatty acid), has a high affinity for hair proteins and, because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft. Mineral oil, being a hydrocarbon, has no affinity for proteins and therefore is not able to penetrate and yield better results. In the case of sunflower oil, although it is a triglyceride of linoleic acid, because of its bulky structure due to the presence of double bonds, it does not penetrate the fiber, consequently resulting in no favorable impact on protein loss.


 I was researching whether sunflower oil was good for the hair and I stumbled upon this. Pretty interesting! It made me glad that coconut oil is my sealant.

Book to buy: The Science of Black Hair *IMPORTANT HAIR EDUCATION*

See, many of us have carried out various online researches ranging from blogs to vlogs and youtube channels etc. However, it is important to be able to have a nearby source of information that is portable. One that you can look for whenever you're in need of a quick reference or advice. Well, The Science of Black hair is a good one. I've read reviews and ofcourse, my Lisa told me about it and I really want to read it! I shall buy it one day! It is equipped with so much information that will be essential throughout your journey or if you are at the start of one or considering beginning one. I am excited! If you want to know the basics about healthy hair care, check out the links below!

Click here for the details on Amazon

I checked out the authors website! Some really useful basic information is on there which I shall read now:

Regimen building basics

About shampoos

About conditioners

A guide to length planning

Relaxer prep

New (permanent) Deep Conditioner! & last shopping

Okay see, you can always keep track of my current products in the Hair Duties Track List page. I have finally gathered all my hair products. I did my hopefully, last hair products shopping a couple of days ago with Lisa. I like to just have all my needs catered for in one go instead having to go back and forth. I know my staple products and they should last me for hopefully more than 6 months or a year. Before the start of my hair journey, I never had this many products but I am pleased to say I care.

I bought  a new deep conditioner, having paid a much closer attention to my old one by Elasta QP. The Soy Oyl DC contained petrolatum and lanolin oil. I had a constant battle with myself because I wanted to make a commitment to myself and my hair regarding these bad substances, however the cost of it made me consider just sticking to it. But you know what, I should respect my hair a lot more and care for, regardless of the cost or energy required. I want to make a good start. Indeed, one thing about this journey is you will learn and realise on the way and such should be embraced.

For some reason, the bottle in the picture looks smaller compared to the actual bottle. I bought this Professional bottle size for £6.45. I tried uploading my own but it wouldn't let me. This bottle is 1Litre. I bought it because it did not have any sulphates, lanolin oil, petrolatum etc. In fact, the second ingredient is soybean oil. The ingredient list is listed according to the percentage content. So as you read through the list from left to right, the percentage of that substance in the bottle is lower. The third ingredient is glycerin, then olive oil. This really impressed me and I bought it, after a long search around the shop for an affordable and healthy staple product. You would be surprised by the amount of hair products that contain harmful substances. You have to be determined to search specifically. It wasn't a problem for me because my love for my hair helps me with it. It wasn't so much a mission because I love hair product shopping! I will miss it for a while but right now I am comfortable having purchased everything now. This product should last me for  about a year, hopefully and I find I will be using DC often. It is both moisturising and a light protein which can be used after my egg protein treatment aswell.

I also bought:

- Biona Virgin Coconut Oil: this actually smells like real coconut! It makes want to eat it, yum! The coconut oil I was previously using did not smell like coconut oil at all, but I didn't think it matteed because it moisturised my hair and strengthened it. However, thanks to Lisa (omg, get yourself a natural hair buddy!) she enlightened me and showed me where to buy this one she bought. It was about £5 but so worth it! She's used hers for about 6 months now and she's only half way. A little a day goes a long way.

- Applicator bottle: I will be mixing my oils in here for my hot oil treatment to make it easier for me to apply it to my scalp.

- Tiny spritz bottle: use during braids, to spray oil on my scalp

- Another spray bottle: one for my water and rose water mix and the other (older one) for anything like conditioner/shapoo mix for my braids

Washed and moisturised my braids!

I decided to wash my braids (scalp) week 1 into my protective styling. I am planning to keep it in for 4 weeks and I will be washing it in the 3rd week before taking them out. I mixed about 2 table spoons (measure) of Elasta QP shampoo with the same amount from my new ORS conditioner, into my spray bottle. I shaked the spray bottle until it formed into foams and sprayed on my scalp. I sprayed thoroughly around my scalp whilst massaging it in. After it was soaking I rinsed out the bottle and filled it in with water. I sprayed on my scalp and rinsed it out. I used a towel to gently absorb the water. I did this at night time so I sprayed my leave-in conditioner and wrapped up in a satin scarf to ensure quick drying. I woke up this morning and moisturised as usual. Sprayed my S-Curl moisturiser and sealed my scalp and rubbed some oil on my hair length.

I can say my hair feels very moisturised and cleansed!

Change of protein treatment! Home made conditioner!

Lisa also stressed to me the need to get proper trimming scissors. Well, I made a huge mistake by using paper scissors because apparently, they aren't sharp enough and may therefore worsen the split ends. So yeah! I need to get proper sharp, trimming scissors!

I have finally been brought on into using egg as a protein treatment! I want to be as natural as possible so I won't be using Aphogee or ORS Hair mayonnaise, but instead, I want to stick to the natural properties as possible and stay away from too many chemicals. As usual, I shall be doing a protein treatment once a month after my usual hot oils/wash times (see hair duties track list). It is key to maintain a good moisture/protein balance according to your hair needs. I love protein, and since your hair is made up of protein (keratin), it won't do any harm at all, in fact, it is higly beneficial! Hitherto, I had been using greek yoghurt as my main protein treatment but I realised it was too costly for me every month so I am going to stop. Also, I used raw avocado mash which cost me a lot so instead I will buy avocado oil. Another reason for using egg is because there is nothing better than making use of in-your-kitchen or in-your-cupboard stuff, easy, accessible and cheap! Especially, if you're a busy woman. Egg is a great source of protein! Make sure you wear an old shirt before doing this, it could get messy. My treatment will follow:

Egg-yolk hair repair treatment

• Crack open one egg
• Mix in my mixer cup while pouring in one tablespoon of olive oil
• Rub and massage around hair
• Cover hair with shower cap
• Leave for an hour
• Rinse out with lukewarm/cold water and cheap conditioner (you do not want to cook the egg)

you can add:
yoghurt/mayo

Your hair should feel really strong afterwards! I have no complaints having used greek yoghurt because it made my hair feel really strong afterwards. Depending on your hair needs, you can use 1 or 2 eggs. Raw eggs contain a significant concentration of essential proteins and other nutrients. As a matter of fact, one egg contains 6 grams of high-quality protein and all 9 essential amino acids. Additionally, eggs  contain naturally occurring vitamin D.

pt1.

pt2.

There are only so many products you can use on your hair

I mean, I have been watching many videos of products used by girls with long hair. It made me realise, not every product will suit every hair so its best just to choose a certain or set of hair products, try, change and adjust. Keep your product list to the minimum, as well as the ingredient list. There are sooo many hair care products, but if you do your research well, you will have a good eye for the right ones. Ofcourse, regardless of research, your hair needs have to be taken into consideration as well. Balancing the two is crucial and knowing how much is too much is essential. As you can see, I have used many products, learned from my research and from my personal journey and have in return, made the appropriate changes.

What I really want to set out during my hair journey is being able to remain minimal, with little hassle or expense and still being able to grow long health hair.

Lessons.

Get to know about Rose Water!

This beautiful scenting liquid was given and recommended to me by Lisa! I never knew about this, prior to our conversation while she was braiding my hair.
As you know, when you moisturise your hair daily, and you feel like your hair is extra dry or extra thirsty, you can spray water around your hair to quench that thirst. Nevertheless, you could just moisturise your hair with water every day and night before you sleep. Water is healthy! Then you can moisturise before or after and then seal. Well, you can also mix your water spray with rose water or just use rose water as your sole spray.

Currently with my single braids as protective styling, I spray on my scalp with rose water every day (mixture with water for braids), then every other day I moisturise using my massaging fingers using my mango and olive moisturiser and then seal with castor oil! I also use coconut oil to rub my braids until where my hair ends. There are so many benefits of rose water, apart from it being a very cheap hair product, it is highly beneficial and helps to give your hair a nice scent daily. When I take out my braids, I will be using it to moisturise my new growth to make them more manageable. A picture of my rose water bottle:

Benefits of rose water:

1. It has exceptional blood flow stimulating properties and therefore, it can be used as a home remedy for treating hair loss and increasing hair growth.

2. It is a natural moisturiser that helps to recover the quality of your hair.

3. Pure rose water, purchased by you from any reputed shop, is made up of rose oil and distilled water. Alternately, it can be prepared by soaking fresh rose petals in purified water. Hence, there are no artificial components and this natural product does not have any side effects (except an individual sensitivity to roses that might be likely).

4. On account of its innate healing properties, it is useful in treating mild scalp inflammations.

5. It has been found to be effective in treating dandruff that is caused mainly by fungal infections.

6. It is known to make the hair strands stronger and thus, it helps to minimize hair fall.

7. It imparts a delicate and lingering fragrance to your hair, thus giving you a refreshing feeling.

Incorporating rose water into your regimen:

• Rose water can be applied directly on your scalp and hair. Just take a few drops of rosewater and it should be rubbed into your scalp in a gentle manner. This will make your hair look fresh and the quality of your hair would be improved.

• Your regular shampoo can be diluted with rose water while you wash your hair.

• Use a cup of rose water as an after-shampoo-rinse to get deeply conditioned hair.

• Glycerin and rose water should be mixed in equal quantities and the mixture has to be applied on your scalp. Massage your scalp gently with the help of your finger tips. Let it remain on your scalp for around thirty minutes and shampoo your hair. This can be done once in every week for five or six months to get nourished hair and scalp.

• Home made shampoo with rosewater: To make the shampoo, you would require rose water (1/4 cup), rum (1/4 cup), three eggs and vinegar. This natural shampoo is extremely good for oily hair. First of all, the eggs have to be beaten thoroughly in a large bowl. Add rose water and rum in the quantities mentioned. Massage the mixture into your hair and scalp; start with your scalp area and work your way down to the hair-ends. If your hair tends to be extremely oily, leaving this shampoo for a couple of minutes will be beneficial. Rinse it in vinegar as this will strip the excess oils and restore natural sheen to your hair.

Best Homemade Moisturizing Spritiz, This is a must have for dry hair!!!!!

Aloe & Rosewater Moisture Hair Spray

More videos:

Natural Hair: Rose water

Rose water review + length check

6-FOOT-LONG-HAIR: Natural Ways to Color Hair

6-FOOT-LONG-HAIR: Natural Ways to Color Hair: I posted this back in 2010, but added some more mixes and decided to re-post. Many of you are familiar with these, but I posted for those t...

Moisturising/Washing your protective style!

Single Braids Tips! #3

If your hair has been recently chemically processed, avoid putting in braid/weave/cornrow extensions for a least a month. By then you will have some new growth to fortify the chemically treated hair, which is by nature weaker and porous, stronger more resilient hair for braid/weave/cornrow extension to be attached to.

 Make sure your hair is in good condition before embarking on putting on braid/weave/cornrow extensions. If hair is weak, brittle, breaking and experiencing excessive shedding, the braid/weave/cornrow extensions will only exacerbate the situation. We tend to see braid/weave/cornrow extensions as a way of masking or covering hair issues, so we look presentable till the issue is resolved. This is not the case, the weight and mechanical tension of the braids will only put more traumas on the hair. If there is a hair condition that is too bad to have out in public, it is better to try wigs as these can be removed every evening and the hair treated with whatever is needed, and also there is not pressure or tension applied to the hair to wear a the wig. DO NOT use glue on wigs though!


Do not apply braid/weave/cornrow extensions that are too heavy for your hair, the rule of thumb should be that the hair to be applied should be about the same amount in thickness as the hair it is to be attached to, that is to say if you section out a pencil sized amount of your hair, then your will attach hair of a pencil size in thickness to it. Also try to make the length of the extension no more than two and a half times the length of your own hair. If you want to make the length longer, then the thickness of the attached hair should be less than the thickness of the section of hair you want to attach it to, (but keep in mind though that if your hair is naturally curly or kinky and in its natural curly or kinky state, this will start to look untidy after your first wash). The reason for being careful of the size and length of the hair you attach to your hair is rather simple; you do not want to put undue strain on your hair and hair follicles, by adding too much weight for the hair to bear. This will lead to breakage, shedding and Alopecia.

Do not make the braid/weave/cornrow too tight. You do not want to sacrifice the health of your hair for style. If the braid/weave/cornrow extensions are too tight, you could end up with tension alopecia. Trichologists claim that when this type of alopecia happens to the edges and nape it is possible with perseverance to grow the hair back, but if it happens in the centre of your head this hair will never grow back. Make sure you insist to your stylist that you do not want the braids too tight.

Before braiding prepare the hair for the application of the extensions. Fortify, strengthen and build up your strands with a deep conditioning protein treatment (leave on hair for at least 20 – 30 minutes under a steamer or heat cap, or an hour if using a shower cap, towel and body heat). Follow this with a deeply moisturising conditioner, (again leave on for the prescribed times mentioned for the protein deep conditioning), one that compromises of Shea Butter and Coconut, is a good one to go with. Shea Butter for its moisturising properties and ability to seal in moisture, and Coconut Oil for its ability to moisturise hair strands and transport protein into the hair shaft.

When wearing your braids, wash your hair regularly, alternating between a light silicone free conditioner – co washing one week, and a sulphate free shampoo wash the next. This will prevent build up that can cause the hair to matt which will lead to tangles and hair breakage when you take out your braids. The best way to do this is to dilute the shampoo with water about 2 parts shampoo to one part water and put it in an applicator bottle. Wet hair thoroughly and apply the diluted shampoo to your scalp, use your finger pads to massage in gently and work into a lather, then rinse. During the rinsing the soapy water will work its way down the length of the braid and carry any dirt and oil with it.

Deep condition your hair after every shampoo wash to replace oils removed. You can use a shorter lighter conditioner treatment for after a co wash.

Seal in moisture after conditioning with a good water based moisturiser (this is moisturiser that has water as its first or one of its main ingredients).

Wrap hair in a turban with a micro fibre towel or cotton tee shirt, then when hair is no longer dripping allow it to air dry.

Oil your scalp once a week after every wash to prevent dry scalp and flakes forming. You don’t want dandruff whispering your secrets everywhere you go!

Moisturise your hair daily by misting with water, or an oil and water mix. Make sure you mist the roots as well as the entire length of your own hair with in the braid/weave/cornrow extension.

Apply a heavy moisturising butter like a Shea Butter and Coconut mix every other day after misting.

Do not carry your braids for too long, as tempting as it may be, especially when you think of the time and money spent to do them! The longer your leave the braids in the more likely you will get build-up and matting of your hair of some sort which will lead to hair loss and breakage ultimately.

When you take out your braids, remember to repeat the protein treatment, then moisturising treatment previously mentioned.

- curly2kinky

Single Braids Tips! #2

People tend to think that the moment they put braids extensions in  their hair . It will automatically grow
their hair and they don't have to do any thing else.  Truth is,  this is the best time to take care of your hair
naturally and still  wear extensions. It's pointless to wear braids for 3 months only to realize that the
situation and condition of your hair is  more or less the same if not worst, especially if the motive for
braiding is to improve the  overall well being of your hair and to take a break from all forms of hair
chemicals. I suggest the following steps to a healthy  braids wearing  and  to achieve
happiness/satisfaction  once the braids are out.

1: Chemicals - Avoid applying Individual extensions/braids in your hair at least until after 2 weeks of an chemical input. Sometimes braiders will tell you that relaxing your hair just before braiding will make your braids neater and more presentable. Truth is the neatness of your braids depends on how good the
braider is at parting the hair and more often than not, the length of your own hair. Very short hair tend to
come out of braids whilst longer hair stay put.

2 :  Before braiding - Deep condition your hair  a day before  applying the extensions. Continue to deep
condition your hair even when you have the braids  in  at least once in 2 weeks .  I suggest you use a
conditioner that is rich in protein. Use  an equal proportion of shea butter and coconut oil as deep
conditioner. (I have these products available too). If your hair is strong, though/hard I suggest you stick to
the same regimen as mine. I have vowed never to do without these two ingredients in my beauty regimen
and that includes my body/skin I am  staying strictly to shea butter because of it's moisturizing properties.
 Deep condition your hair for about 1 hour ( i normally stay longer, I deep condition when I have no where
to go so there's no hurry). Concentrates more on the root/scalp of the braids than the body it self.  Always
remember that if the foundation is weak the building will collapse .

3: Washing/shampooing - Wash your braids once in 2 weeks. This is very good for your hair as it allows
your hair to rest from the chemical contents in shampoos even though some shampoo products say they
have little chemical contents, my advice is,  it's better to be safe than sorry. Washing your braids every
two weeks will allow the braids to retain it's strength and  reduce early rough appearance. I must say that
braids is one of the very few hair styles that even when it's rough it's still beautiful. Buy a cheap old
shampoo if you must as braid extensions gulp lots of it before it lathers.

4: Coconut oil usage as hair nutrient dates back as far as the beginning of the black race in Ile-ife( the
origin of black nation). Coconut oil helps softens  yet strengthen and promotes your under growth. It also
promotes hair growth. Coconut oil  is  as strong and solid as coconut itself. An African proverb goes thus
"  Any one who breaks a coconut with his/her head will not be among the people that will eat it " That
adage is to show the extent of the power of coconut, so imaging something as strong as that fighting for
the benefit of your hair. The result is total success.

Another great ingredient to have at hand during your braiding period is unrefined Shea Butter ( Coconut
oil and shea butter are now available on our African Body Products page). This is the master of moisture
and healthy groom. There are many fake shea butter out there, please beware. Never use refined shea
butter, it's been chemically process. The Original Shea butter is cream in color and as often as many
beauticians try to tell people that shea butter can come in many shades. It doesn't. I spent 27 yrs in West
Africa and shea butter is a must have house old item over there. I grew up with shea butter and the color
has never been  other than cream . The color is Cream. The smell cannot be explained, it's close to
being odorless, yet it's not. It's not offensive at all. shea butter is all purpose moisturizer. Your skin will
thank you and your hair will rejoice.  If you don't have coconut oil or shea butter use braid sprays such as
African pride instead but get your hands on one of the ingredients above as soon as you can.  Always oil
your scalp at least 3 times a week to retain moisture and prevent flaky scalps or dandruffs.

- hadjabraids

Single Braid Tips! #1

While your hair is Braided

Be sure to Moisturize:
When hair is in braids, it often loses its moisture, making it easier to fall out. To help seal in moisture, remember to spritz hair with store bought braid sprays or a concoction of you own.
- You can create your own mixture by mixing oils like Jojoba, Olive, with water and glycerin.

Pay attention to braid BUILD-UP and NEW Growth
This usually happens when you have used too much product and your hair knots up at the roots after the emergence of new growth. At the site of build-up, simply take out old braids and re-braid, doing so often ensures your braid is always looking fresh

Remember to Wash
Just because your hair is in braids does not mean you should stop washing it. One easy way to wash your hair and maintain the style is to wash it with diluted shampoo while in the shower. Massage your scalp to release the debris, move along to the rest of your hair, and be careful not to tug on your hair too much. Don’t forget to condition your hair after washing, this can be achieved with the help of a leave-in conditioner.
Be sure to wash your braids once in two weeks, pay particular attention to the scalp.

Cover your braids before you sleep:
Whether it is a hair net or silk scarf, it is important to protect your braids from loosening while you sleep by covering it.

- bellanaija

Protective Styling: braids !

Guys, the braids I did last time were awesome, for me, and for my hair! I want them again. I am going to need a really good protective styling for the winter ''winterising my hair'' and for the holidays too! Keeping my hair protected is key and braids make me feel more natural. No more weave. I tell everyone. I shall be doing black and some wine red braids, since I did brown highlights last time. Let's see how it goes :D I am going to search up ways to keep my hair in good condition while in braids. I don't want to buy braids  sprays, products etc. from the shop but I would rather make my own braids hair care treatments. Braids will help me retain length and growth. One thing I would never do though, is do micro-braids (too much risk!), I will be doing thick braids, about the same thickness as my hair.

I just did my hot oil treatment and conditioned my hair so that it will be in good shape before the braiding.

Lisa will be doing my single braids for me today before we head up to my uni christmas party!

My lovely girl!

This is my lovely girl Lisa! I love her so much! She's the first person I met to have been on a natural hair journey, completed dedicated and excited for it! We work at the same place and we ended up recognising that we are both on a journey. She's currently on her 8th month and her hair is amazing! It feels good to know you have someone that you can share your hair experiences with, ask questions, hair shop together and share advice with! It makes it even more exciting because she is natural while I am relaxed, kind of like a fitting puzzle. We text each other everytime regarding our hair stuff and she's the first to notice my growth!

Back to using shea butter! She helped me with my solidcold shea butter by placing it on the heater. Remember my past shea butter post? Well, I whipped up a shea butter cream, however it had kinda flopped because it was solid. I attempted to rub it on my hair (in its solid form) and my hair cut off. So I completely stopped it and put it aside! But, where would I be without my Lisa? She told me I just needed to rub it between my hands until it transformed into a oily substance before rubbing it into my hair. Thank you lisa! :D I rubbed the shea butter in my hair and it felt really good. She sold form had been in a cup for many weeks now, but I finally made use of it tonight. I shall be using it as my pre-sleep moisturiser before wrapping silk.

My natural hair buddy <3 FOLLOW HER TUMBLR

Megz Roller setting!

I love megz's hair! :D

http://www.ulovemegz.com

Shopping! New replacement products!

I went to do some hair care products shopping today. I bought:
- Elasta QP Olive Oil and Mango Butter moisturiser
- Elasta QP  Soy Oyl Anti-Breakage Moisture-Rich Deep Conditioner

I love Elasta QP products, not only due to their minimum ingredient list and avoidance of harsh substances (see tips) but because of the effects of their products on my hair. This moisturiser has a watery, non-greasy/oily substance which is really good. Many moisturisers I saw on the shelves were oily and sticky in substance, and we know what that does. We are trying to avoid petrolatum, petroleum oil, lanolin etc. I will stop using Luster's pink because it contains those (I read the ingredients list again, however my reasons for using it had been due to my friends and families using the cream, they had good hair!) and it's better to cut it out earlier than later. Henceforth, I will be using my 2 moisturisers, this one and Luster's S-curl (highly recommended, non-greasy!). I'm keeping my regime and products to a minimum. As usual, my sealing cream will be coconut oil, real, actual coconut oil. It has to smell like coconut, although much more expensive.

I cannot believe the way I used to treat my hair prior to this journey. I would use Dax on my hair. I feel like I should ask my hair for forgiveness. Dax is like 99% petroleum, I might aswell had used vaseline on my hair. Yes, they state jojoba oil etc on the ingredient list but I bet it's only 0.000002% of that. Never again. Also, I would leave the relaxer for more than 15 mins on my hair. You want to know how long for? 1-2 hours! Yes, I know, I know. But now I have realised and I am treating my hair like a baby. I love my hair so much, to the extent where the thought of putting weave back on my head again makes me itch.

Now left to buy:
- Organic ACV
- Biona Organic virgin coconut oil (smells like coconut soo much, I could eat it!) around £7.
After I get those, my product list will be completed! :D

Comments!

I am very happy! I have been receiving various compliments regarding my hair. My friends and my aunts have noticed my hair growth, thickness and improvement. It's good to know people take regard and it makes me want to be even more determined! I shall reach my length!

Pic: Curls!!